Men’s fashion: YSL, Lanvin lead way in comfy elegance
PARIS (AFP) - Leading fashion houses Yves Saint Laurent and Lanvin offered men a lesson in juggling comfort and elegance, while Paul Smith made geeky chic the coolest look around for next autumn.
Stefano Pilati is mindful to keep the cold chill off fans of his timeless clothes for Saint Laurent, wrapping them up with hoods regardless of what else they are wearing — a sloping-shouldered fire-engine red coat with flannel trousers, for example.
He used fur, though sparingly, at the collar or wrist, while with their long and supple grey woollen cardigans, cosy duffle coats, straight-cut coats or parkas, the Saint Laurent look is only complete with a silk scarf.
Headgear was also a clue to the spirit of Lanvin’s wardrobe, another of the labels to have unveiled menswear collections for autumn-winter 2007-08 here, as part of five days of shows which end Tuesday.
Topped off by hats that were a cross between a cap and a riding hat, the Lanvin man can look forward to a chic winter wardrobe with a youthful spirit whose roots are sporty and whose philosophy is comfort.
“It is very much inspired by jogging suits,” said the house’s Dutch designer Lucas Ossendrijver, of the Lanvin men’s look for next winter that included trousers tightened at the ankle over basketball boots, and parka coats.
“What is needed for a guy today is to be modern and not be too dressed up and not be too casual,” he told reporters after the show.
So, into the natural tones the designer tossed fresh strong colours like those of basketball boots in violet or red, threw in deliberately crumpled-effect fabrics and kept the overall feel soft and rounded.
“In a way it is very masculine but never macho,” he commented.
At Paul Smith, it was as though the veteran British designer had taken the classics from the wardrobe of an English country house — corduroy, soft checks, turned-up trousers and pinstripes (for those occasional meetings in the city) — and given them to a modernist.
In their updated versions, they contributed to a definite city ’street’ feel. Smith for instance paired a chunky knit polo neck sweater under a close-fit smart blazer, or introduced thick embroidery to the back and pocket or, still, tone-on-tone pattern to a velvety jacket.
But his strongest look was reserved for trousers which were cropped short while retaining their turn-ups that stopped even above the laced-up brogue ankle boots, or to show off rosy or golden-yellow socks.
And once the summer’s warmth has ebbed away, Smith wants the start of autumn to hold on to the remnants of that warm glow, offering hazy burgundy, lime, red, chestnut, soft browns and earthy tones.
For more formal dressing, Masatomo’s gleaming rock or movie star male glamour came in the form of fluid long jackets and coats and loosely-cut trousers thanks to glossy fabrics, liquidy silver shirts and sparkly collars or edging.
Japan’s Rynshu Hashimoto also provided choices in milky white, chocolate brown and slate grey including a generously rounded cape, as well as running turquoise, burgundy and gold together like ink on blotting paper.
Jean Paul Gaultier is on Monday’s menswear line-up after unveiling stunning, religious-inspired women’s haute couture here last week, and Franck Boclet bows out with his last collection for Francesco Smalto.
