Gucci’s 40s glamour evokes adventurous spirit
MILAN (AFP) - Gucci designer Frida Giannini infused glamour that harked back to the 1940s screen goddess with a nod to the spirit of strong pioneering women at her winter runway show.
She introduced an aviator theme here Wednesday with gender-blurring tweed coats, a bottle green flying jacket and knee-length pants over long boots that seemed straight off a black and white movie set.
But the look was not so much dashing aviator masculinity, as a sultry, sexy heroine, with models’ glossy hair worn long and wavy, their pale complexions marked by dramatic deep red lips.
Her inspiration, the Italian designer said in the show’s style note, had been Lee Miller, the “trailblazing” model and photographer including for Vogue during World War II.
“She was a pioneer — talented, passionate and fashionable, just like strong women of today.”
For day time, Giannini offered mini dresses in filmy fabrics, skinny pants that wrinkled at the ankles, jackets and coats, and often a high waistline for a lean silhouette.
Dramatic eveningwear was a choice of sweeping 1940s black gowns punctuated by stunning details, such as a copper-coloured belt, sweetheart neckline or glittering shoulder embellishment.
At Marni, Consuelo Castiglioni is always very clear in her forward-looking vision of luxurious female dressing — supple, unrestricted yet controlled and deceptively simple.
The distinct and precise cut of her clothes, such as rounded coats with drop shoulder seams and short sleeves, are super chic yet without the constraints of any kind of formality.
Futuristic textures — heat-fused fabrics, polypropylene and latex — gave fluid lines of skirts and knee-length dresses a fresh allure. Darts, folds, pleats and plisse techniques helped create the gentle shapes.
Colours ranged from dark and dusky, in rose pink, plum and violet, to bright flashes of shocking pink and marine blue.
Models stepped out in ankle-strap wedgies, in patent or satin, to echo the clothes, carrying slouchy bags or a rounded tote. Other accessories included long mittens or two-tone gloves and marmot hats fastened under the chin.
The whole look was wrapped up in casual style with cotton canvas belts.
When the decor opened up concertina-like on Antonio Marras’ catwalk to reveal the black and white facade of an Italian villa, it set the scene for his delicate, but not fragile, approach to dressing.
The opening passage largely in black and white with sheer fabrics over lighter shades and geometric stitching gave a strong indicator that these are clothes for women with a poetic take on style.
But poetic does not mean romantic flounces, frills or flowers. Marras patchworks textures and patterns, throwing in more detail that can begin to be appreciated in the fleeting moment the model passes by.
A refined 1920s ladylike elegance came across in gently shaped skirts to mid-calf or thick sequins glittering on cuffs, but especially with a cute cloche or colourful mohair berets.
Roberto Cavalli offered a choice between cigarette pants or jodhpurs. He teamed up thin ties with cream satin jackets left open over shirts. Stetson and other head gear swung between cowgirl chic and a soft military look.
At Salvatore Ferragamo, sleek velvet took pride of place, bringing a refined glamour to a curve-hugging bustier dress in chocolate, alongside other winter classics of wool and Prince of Wales check.
On Thursday, Milan fashion week enters its sixth day with Fendi, Dolce and Gabbana, Moschino and Emilio Pucci presenting their women’s ready-to-wear collections for autumn-winter 2007-08.
